Backpacking Peru: The Northern Itinerary (3 weeks)

When I first started my journey through Peru — from Mancora all the way down to Cusco — I didn’t expect the north to stay with me the way it did. Most travelers rush straight to Machu Picchu, but the mountains up here have a quiet kind of magic.

This 3-week itinerary is built from the route I took through northern Peru — with some of my favorite stops, hikes, and moments, and a few experiences I wish I’d had time for. It’s a route that connects coast, jungle, and mountains in a way that feels raw and real.

You can do it both ways, but this post follows the direction I did: Chiclayo → Chachapoyas → Cajamarca → Trujillo → Huaraz → Lima. You can travel it entirely by bus (which I did) or fly between Chiclayo and Lima if you’re short on time.

Here’s how you can explore the lesser-known side of Peru — from misty cloud forests to glacial lakes — and still feel like you’ve uncovered something most people miss.

The Itinerary

Stop 1: Chiclayo

Days: 2

Chiclayo didn’t make much of an impression on me. It felt more like a transit city than a destination in itself — useful for breaking up a long journey if you arrive from the north or with airplane (which is why I’ve included it in the itinerary), but not a place I’d linger. If you arrive in the evening as I did and have a night bus the following day, you'll have a whole day in the city.

What to do

• Visit the Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipán in Lambayeque — one of the best museums in the country.

• Explore Huaca Rajada, where the Lord of Sipán tomb was discovered.

• Walk through the Mercado Modelo, a chaotic local market famous for its witchcraft section (mercado de brujos).

Where to eat and drink

I don't know the name of the place, but I can tell from pictures, that we had chifa, which is a popular Peruvian-Chinese fusion cuisine. It blends traditional Chinese cooking techniques and ingredients with Peruvian flavors and ingredients. There is not the place in Peru where you can't find chifa. It's a tasty fusion that comes at a good price and with a big menu card.

How to get to the next stop: Chachapoyas

From Chiclayo, take an overnight bus to Chachapoyas (10–12 hours). Movil Tours offers comfortable options. Book online via redBus Peru or buy the ticket at the bus station: at the corner of Av. Luis Gonzales and Av. Fransisco Bolognesi (if Movil Tours).

Stop 2: Chachapoyas

Days: 4

Chachapoyas was amazing — one of my favorite stops in the north. We did a day tour to the tall Gocta Waterfall, but just before reaching it, the sky opened up and it became too dangerous to continue. Even without seeing the waterfall itself, the landscape and the atmosphere around Chachapoyas were unforgettable.

What to do

• Day 1: Arrive, settle in, and visit Mirador del Cañon de Huancas Sonche for an incredible view of the Sonche cliff.

• Day 2: Hike to Gocta Waterfall, one of the tallest in the world.

• Day 3: Spend one day visiting Kuelap Fortress, often called the “Machu Picchu of the North.”. For multi-day trekkers: the Gran Vilaya Trek is an incredible 3-5 day route combining ruins and cloud forest trails - all leading to the Kuelap Fortress.

• Day 4: Optional day trip to Karajía Sarcophagi or Revash Tombs.

Where to stay

Hostal Norte Backpackers (14 USD/N): Central location, chill vibes, and the coziest common area. 8 out of 10 stars on hostelworld.com (October 2025).

How to get to the next stop: Cajamarca

Book online via redBus Peru or buy the ticket at the bus station. Turismo Virgen del Carmen is a company that offer this travel - ask the staff of your accommodations where to find the office.

Stop 3: Cajamarca

Days: 3

Cajamarca reminded me a lot of Chachapoyas — equally charming and surrounded by green hills — but Chachapoyas made a bigger impression and was less crowded. The distance is long, and I would therefore recommend at least three days, to recover from the travel. However, if you don't mind, limit the time here.

What to do

• Visit Baños del Inca, known for its hot springs.

• Stroll around the Plaza de Armas and climb up Cerro Santa Apolonia for views.

• Visit the Ventanillas de Otuzco, which is the necropolis of a pre-Inca population. Hundreds of impressive niches located side by side in the huge rock of a ravine.

Where to eat and drink

• Kaphiy Perú: For a very good cup of coffee, this is the place.

• Leche de Tigre in the corner of Plazuela Belén. It's like ceviche in a cup. It looks questionable, but when you see the line in front - a good mix of locals and tourist - you know what's up. It was so tasteful.

Where to stay

• Casa El Capulí Hospedaje (15 USD/N): Had a nice yard, shared bathroom, and a friendly host. 9,3 out of 10 on booking.com (October 2025).

How to get to the next stop: Trujillo

Take a daytime bus from Cajamarca to Trujillo (around 7 hours). It’s a scenic but winding drive, so plan for motion sickness if that affects you. Or take a night bus, but make sure that you can do early check-in at the accommodations.

Stop 4: Trujillo

Days: 2

If possible, I’d skip Trujillo. It didn’t really stand out to me, but the reason I stopped was to avoid an extremely long direct journey to Huaraz. The city itself didn’t add much to the experience, though the surrounding archaeological sites are interesting if you have an extra day.

What to do

• Visit Chan Chan, the adobe city of the Chimú civilization.

• Check out Huacas del Sol y de la Luna, if you enjoy ancient history.

• Walk around in the city and stretch your legs before the next long-distance bus.

Where to eat and drink

• Restaurant - Sabor Peruano: Starters, main, and fresh juice for about 5 USD. What's not to like. However, this place is a little far out, but we did go for a long walk that day to see as much as possible before the night bus. Here, I tasted Papa a la Huancaina, which features tender boiled potatoes topped with a creamy, zesty sauce known as huancaína (from the area of Huancayo, in the central highlands of Peru). Simply but tasty! I am sure you can find it somewhere else, just look for the name on 'Menu del Dia'.

Where to stay

• Yaqta Hostel (20USD/N): Good location, sociable and with a cool common area and true hostel vibes. 9,2 stars out of 10 at hostelworld.com (October 2025).

How to get to the next stop: Huaraz

Take an overnight bus to Huaraz (8-10 hours). Book online via redBus Peru or buy the ticket at the bus station.

Stop 5: Huaraz

Days: 8

If you haven’t acclimatized yet, take it slow — the altitude here (3,000m) is no joke and why I have put in some extra days. Huaraz became one of the highlights of my trip, and we actually came back for more later on the same South American trip, spending almost three weeks in total.

It’s a great place to pause, breathe, and explore nature at your own rhythm. For hikers, this is paradise. But this is also the stop where you can trim down the days a bit if one or two hikes are more than enough to satisfy you - because this is the capital of hiking.

What to do

• Day 1–2: Arrive and acclimatize — take it slow!

• Day 3: Easy acclimatization hike to Laguna Wilcacocha.

• Day 4: Full-day trek to one of the following places: Laguna 69, Laguna Parón, Laguna 513, Laguna Tullpaccocha, Laguna Churup, or Laguna Llaca (you can read the ranking of all the hikes I did in South America, including the ones mentioned before here).

• Day 5–7: Optional Santa Cruz Trek (tough it would be 3–4 days extra) or a day hike to one of the one mentioned before.

• Day 8: Rest, visit thermals baths in either in Chancos Thermal Baths or Monterrey Baths, and move on to the next stop.

Where to eat and drink

• Hierba Buena is the place you go for good, traditional Peruvian food. It's a bit more expensive than what I would usually go for when travelling on a budget, but if you should have a cheat day, let it be there.

Where to stay

• Montañero Hostel (9 USD/N incl. breakfast): Actually, I only recommend this place because the staff is super nice and flexible. The location is not great and the common area could use a caring hand. Nonetheless, we went back both times for a reason. I could imagine that it's pretty social during high-season. 8,1 out of 10 on booking.com (October 2025).

How to get to the next stop: Lima

Take a night bus from Huaraz to Lima (8–9 hours) to save money on accommodations or do it during the day as it's a very scenic view. Book online via redBus Peru or buy the ticket at the bus station.

Read more

Discover Huaraz: Peru's Adventure Capital

Stop 6 – Lima

Days: 3

I’ll be honest — I wasn’t a big fan of Lima. Traveling as two women, it didn’t feel like a city I wanted to explore too deeply. There are nice areas and good food, but if you’re looking for that capital-city buzz, I’d say look elsewhere. Peru is about its landscapes, not its capital.

That said, it’s still worth a couple of days — mostly to regroup, enjoy a few comforts, and prepare for the long southern stretch. If you arrive after a night on the road and leave in a night bus on the third day, you'll have almost three full days.

What to do

• Visit Barranco, the artistic neighborhood, for cafés and murals.

• Try some good food — Lima is known for it. We did a DIY food tour, following Netflix show "Watch Street Food: Latin America".

• Do a ceviche and Pisco Sour cooking class with Llaqta Wasi.

• DIY walking tour through the Historic Center and/or Miraflores, or do a Free walking Tour (10 USD) with for example Guru Walk - I really enjoyed these tours.

Where to eat and drink

• Milenaria Cafe: Enjoy a coffee and a sweet treat in this cosy establishment in a nice areas of the city.

• Al Toke Pez: A busy place, so expect a line. They serve the best ceviche, rice with seafood, and deep-fried giant squid. If you haven't seen it already, this place is also featured in Netflix series: Street Food: Latin America.

• Restaurante Huerta - Chinen: Another busy place for lunch. They serve traditional Peruvian cuisine. Just order what ever the locals are eating!

Where to stay

• The Secret Garden Hostel (10 USD/N): Unlike the other recommendations, this price is for a dorm. I think it's worth it as it's located in the charming neighbourhood, Miraflores. The place has true hostel vibes. 7,7 out of 10 on hostelworld.com (October 2025).

Final notes

The itinerary I propose would work out for me as it is, but it’s important that you plan it in a way that suits your interests and curiosity. I’m a nature lover and have given extra time to the places where you can experience incredible landscapes and challenge yourself outdoors. That might not be for everyone — and that’s perfectly okay.

The most important thing to know is that it’s entirely possible to travel by bus through all of Peru, and I find that amazing. It’s cheap, mostly comfortable, and offers beautiful scenery along the way — unless, of course, you’re on a night bus (which is a great way to save money on accommodation).

Adjustments to the itinerary

If you have less than three weeks, you can easily shorten this route. The two main highlights of this itinerary are Chachapoyas and Huaraz — both are rich in nature and adventure and deserve enough time to explore.

If you’re short on days, you can skip Cajamarca or reduce your stay in Huaraz, depending on whether you prefer culture and slower travel or more hiking and mountain scenery.

You can also fly between Lima and Chiclayo instead of taking the bus to save time on the long journey north.

What to pack

With this itinerary, you’ll need to pack everything from shorts to a winter jacket and rain pants. It’s absolutely possible if you pack smart — I’ve done it myself while traveling for six months across South America. You can read all about my packing list here.

And one more thing: you’ll spend a lot of hours on buses. Make it as comfortable as you can and only bring what’s necessary. I’ve also made a separate list with all my bus travel essentials, which you can read here.

Explore The Other Peruvian Itineraries