Colombia challenged me more than any other country on my six-month South America backpacking trip. Some travelers fall in love with it instantly. For me, it was different.

I’m not here to scare you away or glamorize the difficult parts. This is simply my experience of backpacking in Colombia and why it left me feeling constantly on guard - also long after getting back home.

Table of Contents

Click on the topic of interest for faster navigation:

• Bogotá: The night I got robbed

• Santa Marta: Constant on the edge

• The Mental Toll of Constant Alertness

• Dating Apps and Safety Concerns

• Lessons Learned

• Would I Recommend Backpacking Colombia?

• Final Reflections

Bogotá: The night I got robbed

Bogotá was our starting point. I knew it had a reputation for petty crime, but I wasn’t prepared for what happened just outside our hostel one night.

We had ordered an Uber to take us to the bus terminal. The street was quiet, the car never showed up, and as we waited, a small group approached. One of them pointed something at me and demanded my phone.

I froze. I handed it over without hesitation.

My friend managed to ring the hostel doorbell, which scared them off. The hostel owner gave us shelter, a free night, and even came with me to the police station the next morning. I’ll never forget his kindness. But the shock of being robbed right outside my accommodation stayed with me.

Santa Marta: Constant on the edge

Santa Marta was supposed to be a gateway to beaches and national parks. Instead, it became the place where I felt most unsafe.

It was broad daylight when a woman approached me, smiling with her arms open as if to hug me. I stepped aside, but she grabbed for my fanny pack instead. I managed to pull back before she could take it. She shouted after me as I walked away, shaken.

The next day, my friend and I left a café and saw the same woman again. She spotted us immediately and started yelling, walking fast in our direction. We hurried off, tense, until she finally gave up.

Another morning, before heading to Minca, we stopped at a bakery. A beggar walked in and started following us around, mumbling. We left quickly and jumped into a taxi to get away.

At night, the city was locked down. Heavy chains and iron bars sealed doors and windows. The atmosphere was tense, not welcoming.

We went to Playa El Rodadero, a short ride from the city center, hoping for some relief. Instead, it was more stressful than relaxing. Street vendors approached us every minute to sell things. At one point, a woman grabbed me from behind and started massaging my shoulders. After everything that had happened, it gave me a shock. Nothing worse came of it, but we ended up taking turns — one of us in the water while the other guarded our things on the beach. Not very cosy, not very chill.

A Bus Ride That Could Have Gone Wrong

Traveling by bus is the backbone of backpacking South America. Usually it’s safe, though long and tiring. But one ride in Colombia remains etched in my memory.

We were going from Santa Marta to Cartagena in daylight. Somewhere along the way, the road turned into gravel and we slowed into what looked like a small village. Suddenly, the bus stopped at a makeshift roadblock.

Without explanation, all the children were taken off the bus. Everyone went quiet. My stomach dropped. I slipped my passport and cash into my bra, hid my phone, and braced myself.

Minutes passed like hours. Finally, the children returned and we drove on. The relief was written on everyone’s faces. Some passengers even crossed themselves.

It ended well - but for those moments, it felt like anything could happen.

The Mental Toll of Constant Alertness

What made Colombia the most challenging wasn’t just the incidents themselves, but the constant mental strain.

• I never had my phone out in the street.

• I clutched my bag at all times.

• I judged every block before walking down it.

• I would read the face and body language of every person who would look my way.

Backpacking usually brings me freedom and curiosity - slow mornings, wandering markets, photographing daily life. In Colombia, I rarely felt like I could relax.

Dating Apps and Safety Concerns

while being in Colombia, I read warnings about using dating apps like Tinder in Colombia. Some travelers and news reported scams, set-ups, and even express kidnappings linked to online dating. For me, it was one risk too many.

Lessons Learned

Colombia taught me many lessons.

• Trust your instincts. If a street or situation feels wrong, don’t push it.

• Daytime isn’t always safe. Some of my worst experiences happened in broad daylight.

• Don’t chase the hype. Social media often shows only the highlights.

• Pay for safer neighborhoods. Accommodation costs a bit more, but peace of mind is priceless.

• Get proper travel insurance. Theft, scams, and health issues are unpredictable.

• Carry backups. Digital and physical copies of documents saved me stress.

• Choose your transport wisely. Stick with trusted bus companies or book flights when routes feel unsafe.

Would I Recommend Backpacking Colombia?

Yes and no.

Colombia has undeniable beauty. Cartagena’s old town and Salento’s coffee region were highlights for me. But overall, it was the hardest country I visited, and not one I’d recommend for a first-time backpacker or for someone who wants a relaxed trip.

With a higher budget, more planning, and safer transport options, I might go back one day. But during this trip, Colombia was less about freedom and more about survival.

Travel is not just about beautiful places. It’s also about how those places make you feel. And Colombia made me feel on edge.

If you decide to go: travel smart, stay alert, and don’t ignore your gut feeling.

Final Reflections

Every country teaches you something. Colombia taught me resilience, awareness, and the importance of listening to my instincts. It was my most challenging country to backpack—but also one that gave me perspective on what kind of traveler I want to be.

Read more

Ultimate Backpacking Colombia Guide (2025 Update)

Cartagena by night

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