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• My 3-Week Colombia Backpacking Itinerary

• Recommended 3-Week Colombia Backpacking Itinerary

• Final Thoughts

My 3-Week Colombia Backpacking Itinerary

I traveled Colombia in February 2024, starting in Bogotá and ending in Cali before flying to Argentina. My route looked like this:

1. Bogotá (4 days) – Museums, street art, viewpoints, but also a robbery that left a mark on my impression.

2. Salento (3 days) – My favorite spot in Colombia: colorful houses, Cocora Valley, and coffee farms.

3. Jardín (2 days) – Slow mountain town with charming plazas and hikes.

4. Medellín (3 days) – Comuna 13 tour, cable cars, nightlife, and stories of transformation.

5. Santa Marta (4 days) – A hectic base for beaches, but it didn’t feel safe.

6. Cartagena (1 day) – Colorful colonial streets and Caribbean vibes, though it felt more touristy than other places.

7. Cali (4 days) – Salsa dancing, markets, and food tours before flying south.

Looking back, I wouldn’t recommend this exact itinerary. Some places felt stretched out, while others I wished I had given more time and some distances were not worth my time. I would instead spent less time in Bogotá, skip Santa Marta and Cali, and spent more time in Minca and Cartagena.

That’s why I created a revised version below.

Recommended 3-Week Colombia Backpacking Itinerary

After trying the route above, I reshaped it into something more balanced. This version gives you a mix of Colombia’s highlights without too much rushing:

• Cities like Bogotá and Medellín for culture and nightlife.

• Small towns like Salento, Jardín, and Minca for coffee farms and mountain life.

• Nature with Cocora Valley hikes and Andean views.

• The Caribbean coast with Cartagena for a burst of color and history.

It’s still flexible - you can shift days around depending on your pace — but it gives you a strong backbone for planning a three-week trip that feels varied, rewarding, and manageable.

So, if I could redo my 3 weeks in Colombia, this is how I’d plan it:

Alternative 1: Cali — Bogotá — Salento — Jardín — Medellín — Mina — Cartagena

Alternative 2: Bogotá — Salento — Jardín — Medellín — Mina — Cartagena

First alternative: Stop 1 – Cali (2 days)

Cali is often called the salsa capital of the world, and for good reason — the city comes alive at night with music and dancing. Beyond salsa, though, it has fewer “must-see” attractions for backpackers compared to other Colombian cities. A couple of days here are usually enough, unless you’re a dancer at heart and want to dive deep into the salsa scene. Many travelers pass through Cali anyway, since it’s a convenient hub for flights to or from other countries in South America.

If you really want to go to Cali, and haven't booked your flight to Colombia yet, then I would start with Cali and go to Bogotá from there. It would be a direct 12 hours bus ride. If you do what I did, going from Cartagena to Cali, you might consider taking a flight as a bus ride is more than 25 hours. We took the flight as we already had planned to go to Buenos Aires afterwards, and flights were cheaper and better from Cali than from Bogotá.

What to do

• Salsa Class: Learn the basics before hitting a club. We didn't take lessons here, but in Cusco, Peru - at that time Colombia had still not crossed our minds.

• San Antonio Neighborhood: Artsy and laid-back.

• Food Tour: Taste local specialties like pandebono and lulada. I am very happy that we did this tour as we tried many locals we wouldn't have tried otherwise.

Where to eat & drink

• Zahavi Gourmet: Israeli-Colombian fusion on a budget.

Where to stay

• Ache B&B: Where we stayed. Very friendly staff and the room was like a little studio.

How to get to the next stop: Bogotá

1. Start at Terminal de Transportes de Cali: Buy the tickets at the terminal or around 23 USD trough the app redBus (not sponsored) - the prices are fair and time schedule transparent and you'll avoid the chaos there sometimes follows in a new bus station.

2. Take a direct bus to Bogotá: ~10–12 hrs; several companies run this route.

3. Arrive at Terminal de Transportes Salitre: From where you can take an Uber to your accommodation.

From the Food Tour in Cali

Second Alternative: Stop 1 – Bogotá (3 days)

Bogotá is for most travelers the starting point, and has fascinating street art, good markets, and history, but it’s also a city where safety concerns shadowed my stay. Two days is enough to experience the highlights without overstaying.

What to do

• Street Art Tour in La Candelaria: A must to understand Bogotá’s creative energy.

• Monserrate Cable Car: For panoramic views over the sprawling city.

• Sunday Ciclovía: If you’re here on a Sunday, join locals cycling through car-free streets.

Where to eat & drink

• La Puerta Falsa: Try the local ajiaco soup.

• Café Devoción: A cozy specialty coffee spot.

• Contraste Coffee Lab: Great if you like modern café vibes.

Where to stay

• As the situation can change fast in the bigger cities, make good research with the most recent updates on where to stay as a tourist.

How to get to the next stop: Salento

There are no direct bus to Salento, but it was straightforward anyway. Here is how we did it:

1. Start in Bogotá’s Terminal Salitre: Book the night ticket beforehand in the app redBus (around 16USD) to Armenina (or Pereira, but we went to Armenina).

2. Take a bus to Armenia: This journey takes about 7–8 hours. Buses run frequently and at night = save money on accommodations.

3. Transfer in Armenia: From the Armenia bus terminal, take a smaller bus or colectivo to Salento (45 minutes–1 hour). We paid upfront to the bus driver upon arrival.

4. Arrive in Salento: The bus drops you close to the town center. Salento is small enough to walk everywhere once you’re there.

The top of the Monserrate Cable Car

Stop 2 – Salento (3-4 days)

Salento was the highlight of my trip. It’s colorful, safe, and surrounded by coffee and nature, and you need at least one full day.

What to do

• Cocora Valley Hike: Walk among the towering wax palms. Ask your hostel how to get there.

• Coffee Tour: Visit a finca to learn about Colombia’s most famous export. I went to Fina El Ocaso Salento and bought the tickets, including transport, on Plaza de Bolivar Salento.

• Stroll Calle Real: Colorful artisan shops and vibrant houses.

Where to eat & drink

• Brunch de Salento: Legendary for its portions (try the pancakes).

• Café Jesús Martín: Great coffee and cakes.

• Bernabé: Colombian comfort food at good prices.

Where to stay

• Viajero Hostal: mid-range but usually good facilitation and social.

How to get to the next stop: Jardín

There’s no direct bus service between Salento and Jardín, so you’ll need to change in Riosucio. We went as early in the morning as possible to avoid late night layover in Riosucio. Here’s how we did it:

1. Start in Salento’s small bus terminal – Buy your ticket at the station. You can also grab some snacks and drinks here for the journey.

2. Take the bus to Riosucio – The ride usually goes via Pereira or Filandia and takes about 3–4 hours.

3. Transfer in Riosucio – At Terminal de Riosucio, look for a bus or a colorful chiva (rural truck-bus) heading to Jardín. The ride takes 2–3 hours and is scenic, winding, and warm.

4. Arrive in Jardín – The bus drops you in the town center. Jardín is small enough to walk everywhere once you’re there.

The Center of Salento

Stop 3 – Jardín (2-3 days)

Jardín is a great stop between Salento and Medellin. It’s less touristy than Salento and has a more authentic, small-town vibe. Perfect for recharging while still enjoying nature.

What to do

• Ride the Cable Car (Teleférico Jardín): A short ride with sweeping mountain views.

• Cueva del Esplendor Hike: A hidden cave with a waterfall inside.

• Plaza Principal: Simply sit at a café, order tinto (Colombian coffee), and people-watch.

• Waterfall Walks: Several trails start right outside town.

Where to eat & drink

• Café Del Alto de las Flores: Excellent local coffee and a cosy environment.

• Bon Appetit: Affordable pasta and pizza.

Where to stay

• Hospedaje en Esplendor: Budget friendly place, with shared kitchen and bathroom. Was neat and clean. Not so central but it’s a small town, so still close to the center.

• Sgt. Pepper’s Hostel: Mid-range but central. Would choose this for another time just for the views of the surrounding nature.

How to get to the next stop: Medellín

This is one of the short travels as there goes a direct bus and is only a few hours away. Here is how we did it:

• Go to Terminal de Jardín (located at Cl. 8 #5-24): Tickets are sold at the counter or online like redBus (around 11 USD).

• Take a direct bus to Medellín: This ride takes about 3–4 hours. Roads are winding but scenic.

• Arrive in Medellín: Buses usually arrive at Terminal del Sur or Norte. From here, grab a taxi or metro to your accommodation.

The Center of Jardín

Stop 4 – Medellín (4 days)

Medellín is a must for understanding Colombia’s past and future. It’s also a lively city with culture, nightlife, and green escapes.

What to do

• Comuna 13 Walking Tour: Learn about Medellín’s transformation through street art and local guides. We went for the “Free Walking Tour” (they expect at least 10 USD payment in the end, which is only fair) with GuruWalk. A very good experience.

• Metrocable Ride: Take the cable cars into hillside neighborhoods with incredible views.

• Day trip to Guatapé: We didn’t have time for this one, but definitely something I would do if I came back. Here you can climb La Piedra del Peñol for one of Colombia’s best views.

Where to eat & drink

• Pergamino Café: Popular with digital nomads.

• Mondongos: For a hearty local dish.

• If you go to Comuna 13, eat where the locals eat. We did, and it was very authentic with plastic gloves to eat our potatoes and roasted chicken.

Where to stay

I won’t recommend the place we stayed (Aura Hotel) — it was off-location and had poor facilities. If I were to return, I’d go for one of these two options instead:

• Los Patios Hostel – Stylish, social, and located in El Poblado.

• Hostel Rango Boutique – A boutique feel with comfort and a central location.

Both are mid-range and not exactly budget-friendly. But if you’ve read my post about safety in Colombia, you’ll know one of my biggest learnings was that going for the cheapest option can sometimes jeopardize both comfort and safety. You can read more about that here: Why Colombia Was My Most Challenging Country to Backpack.

How to get to the next stop: Minca

This was the longest bus ride we had have in all our South American trip. 18 hours it took us to Santa Marta - luckily there are night buses to pass most of the time sleeping. Here is how we did it:

1. Start in Terminal de Norte in Medellín: Buy your ticket at the station or in redBus (around 37 USD) to Santa Marta.

2. Take the bus to Santa Marta: Bring a lot of snacks and beverages for the 18 hours long drive.

3. Transfer in Terminal de Transportes de Santa Marta: Don’t plan to stay — go straight to the colectivo/4×4 stand or Mercado Público area for transfers to Minca (45-60 min drive).

4. Arrive in Minca. Most colectivos drop you near the main stretch where hostels and tours are arranged.

This is a very long drive, and even though I think Minca was a nice place, maybe think about if you should skip that stop and go directly to Cartagena - however, that would also be a long bus ride of 12-19 hours.

Outside of Comuna 13 on Free Walking Tour

Stop 5 – Minca (3 days)

Minca is small, but its slow pace is the charm. Spending more than one day lets you balance hikes, waterfalls, and lazy evenings in hammocks. Skip Santa Marta completely as this small jungle town has more than only the waterfall - which was the only thing we got to do.

What to do

• Marinka Waterfalls: Beautiful cascades with café viewpoints. An hour walk from the center of Minca, but the water is rewarding. We even saw monkeys jumping in the trees above us.

• Coffee or Cacao Tour: Learn about production in the jungle.

• Sunset at Casa Elemento: Famous for its giant hammock.

Where to eat & drink

• Cattleya Fast Food & Souvenirs: Hands down the best food we had in all of Colombia with a stunning sunset view and cosy surroundings.

Where to stay

We only went for a day tour, but if I was to return, these two places would be options:

• Casa Loma: Rustic jungle lodge with amazing sunsets and very budget-friendly.

• Finca Hostal Vista Verde: Budget option with mountain views in the middle of the jungle.

How to get to the next stop: Cartagena

You should be able to do this route in less than one day and don't need to go with a night bus. Here is what you should do:

• Take a colectivo to Santa Marta (Mercado Público): Leave early in the morning. The ride is roughly 45–60 minutes.

• Head straight to the Terminal de Transportes de Santa Marta. If the colectivo drops you at the Mercado Público, it’s a short ride in Uber to the terminal.

• Take bus directly to Cartagena: Buy tickets on Redbus (around 24 USD) or at the terminal. The bus trip usually takes about 5 hours along the coast. We were unlucky and went on a big detour due to troubles in one of the cities we had to pass, leading the bus through rural areas with spontaneous roadblocks. Was actually a very uncomfortable ride that ended up taking 8 hours. You can read more about this here: Why Colombia Was My Most Challenging Country to Backpack.

• Arrive in Cartagena. Buses arrive at Terminal de Cartagena; from there take an and Uber to your accommodations.

Sunset view over the jungle in Minca

Stop 6 – Cartagena (4-5 days)

Cartagena isn’t just about its old town. Give yourself time for day trips to beaches and islands, as well as lazy walks through colonial streets. We completely miscalculated how long we should stay there, I still regret is to this day. Here is what I would have loved to experience.

What to do

• Walled City & Getsemaní: Wander the plazas, murals, and streets.

• Castillo San Felipe de Barajas: Impressive fortress with city views.

• Rosario Islands Day Trip: Snorkeling and white sand beaches.

• Sunset at Café del Mar: Touristy, but the view should be unbeatable.

• Street Food Tour: One of my favourite activities when visiting a new place.

Where to eat & drink

• La Mulata: Known for affordable Caribbean flavors.

• Café del Mural (Getsemaní): Known for an excellent coffee experience.

Where to stay

• Casa Movida Hostel: Central, stylish, and one of the budget-friendly options.

Where to go to next?

From Cartagena, we chose to fly to Cali, since we had an international flight to Buenos Aires from there. In hindsight, I wouldn’t necessarily recommend Cali unless you’re passionate about salsa or need it as a departure point — the city doesn’t offer as much for backpackers compared to other stops on this route. Overland, the bus ride would take more than 25 hours, which hardly feels worth it.

Because Cartagena has a well-connected airport, it can easily serve as your gateway to other destinations, both within Colombia and abroad. If your trip ends here, it’s a beautiful place to wrap up your Colombian adventure.

Magical street of Cartagena

Final Thoughts

Colombia gave me so many travel memories — and a lot of tough lessons. My recommended itinerary is balanced between cities, mountains, and beaches, while still respecting safety and budget.

If you’re planning your first trip, I’d suggest keeping your plans flexible. Colombia is unpredictable, but that’s also part of its magic.

For safety reasons, my last recommendation is to check up with most recent news about the places you want to visit, just to double check that the neighbourhoods you want to visit are tourist friendly.

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